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Hartley Bay to Shearwater via Klemtu

  • George Kelley
  • Jul 16
  • 6 min read

A cargo ship laying at anchor in Cow Bay, just off the PRRYC marina, Prince Rupert, BC
A cargo ship laying at anchor in Cow Bay, just off the PRRYC marina, Prince Rupert, BC

Whew, we survived the big blow, that didn't happen, on the outside of the floating breakwater in PRRYC. There was high wind predicted but apparently the forcasted winds did not materialize although the ocean was just a few miles away, perhaps the islands blocked some the wind.


We made sure we had sufficient water to cover us for a few days should water not be available at the next locations. We left at early and made beeline for Hartley Bay with a side trip to Verney Falls in Lowe Inlet.

The Girls have become very comfortable on the boat. Ed and I pouring over the chart and reveiwing Predict Wind to determine the best times to be at different points on our journey south. Luna, my wild child is also quite courageous standing on the bow of the boat as we make our way in Lowe Inlet to Verney Fall. The tree is a rookery for gulls at the entrance of the channel.


We had the water fall to ourselves and it seems we spent about 1/2 hour viewing it. Unfortunately, weren't able to launch the dinghy and go closer to the outflow from the water fall. Something about the GPS, insufficient signal, steep mountainous walls....


In Hartley Bay we rafted on the transporter which, according Frank the harbor master, hasn't moved in sometime and probably wont be moved anytime soon. We were visited by two young Canadian Coastguards men who came down to talk when they saw us pull in. The had some great stories to share. I wonder what life is like for them in a relatively remote location with a tiny population.

Magic Carpet rafted onto the Transporter at Hartley Bay, Coast Guard station, Luna sound sleep with a death grip on the chew toy.


We walked the dogs past the school, the rec/gym, the daycare and the medical building. Getting the dogs on and off the boat was a bit of a challenge. They splayed their legs out and seemed to grab onto thin air as we passed them from the transporter back to Magic Carpet. The transporter is a vessel that has a gate at the front to allow for vehicles to load on and off. It has a large open area that the dogs used as their playground after the walk. It was good to see them romp off leash.

The village of Hartley Bay. A walkable boardwalk village. Most of the village is built on pilings. ATV's are used as a mode of transportation.


The village of Hartely Bay is built pilings and the "roadway" are boardwalks. The village is small, the houses for the most part are well maintained. There is limited service at the dock within the bay. We ran the generator until about 10 pm and shut it off for quiet hours. I must say, this small port was the quietest and the least bouncy/rolly of all the marinas we have moored.


We left Hartley Bay at about 9 am after having topped off the fuel tank and the water tank. As you may recall, our rule is if there is water and fuel available, we top off because we might not get any at the next place we stop.


The fuel is dispensed from a tank system on shore via a hose lowered down, to the dock, from the wharf, where the pump and office is located. Water is similarly available from the wharf via a hose fittted with a shut off valve that has been lowered to the dock with about 50 feet of hose available on the hose saddle.


As we left Hartley Bay, headed to the Princess Royal Channel via Whale Channel, McKay Reach and Fraser Reach, we spotted whale blows and were able to catch a glimpse of the humpback whales in those bodies of water. There were large patches of floating orange substance which we assumed were zooplankton (krill) but could have been phytoplankton.

The phytoplanton, according to the modest research I did, is food for many aquatic species and the blooms are apparently as a result of whale diving to feed and then defecating and urinating which provides nutrient for the phytoplankton.


In Princess Royal Channel we were treated to a number of water falls and out flows from the alpine lakes. We paused for possible whale sighting and resumed our travel to Klemtu. We were over taken by BC Ferries ship. I wish the ferries in our neck of the woods appeared so well maintained. All the BC Ferries were as pristine looking as the one in the image.

Mist and steam rising from the mountains, waterfalls, apparently abandoned logging camp dogs more comfortable with cruising. A lovely day for cruising Princess Royal Channel.


There is a free moorage in Klemtu. However, it is first come first served. When we approached we noted that there were a number of boats moored leaving there was little space for us on the on the side of the dock we approached from the north. A gentleman on the dock answered our shouted questions and indicated that there might be some moorage available on the oppositeside of the dock but could n't vouch for the depth . We approched the dock after having rounded the fish pen. The depth indicated 12 feet and we were at high tide. We chose to find a place to anchor and wondered if we could dock at some of the open dock space we saw. As it happens, we were able to flag down a local fisherman who told us we could dock at the airplane float. He said that sail boats routinely dock there in the evening. We are now moored at the floatplane dock . Ed and Stever took the dogs for a well deserved walked. When they returned, the dogs romped on the docks with other dogs. One was apparently owned by one of the researchers doing abalone count. It gave me the chills thinking about diving in those cold waters. It appears that the mullosk is doing well.

Klemtu: Ferry Terminal for BC Ferries; the long house and the ferry booth; the free moorage, such as it is; the shoal on the south side of the free moorage, 12 feet at hightide, no thanks not with tidal exchanges of 12+ feet. Nope! moored at the float plane pier, the ramp leads to the main road, sunset at Klemtu.



As we were navigating in very protected waters with the current and wind behind us, we did not run the generator. No need to run it for the stabbilizer which we did not use and we were also conserving fuel for our continued trip south to Shearwater. We hoped for and were lucky to have had calmed seas with mild rollers in Milbank Sound as we navigated toward Seaforth Channel and on into Shearwater.


The trip was beautiful, the day was warm, the wind mild and our boat speed nullified the wind from astern with the wind we were generating. It was a pleasure to be awaken from a nap to come look at possible whale sightings. As luck would have it, the whales disappeared by the time I got up to the flybridge from the stateroom. None the less, it was a great day to be motoring on the waters of BC and the Pacific Ocean.



Upon arrival, we pulled into the Shearwater Fuel Sales to top off and then to a temporary moorage until a more fitting spot could be made ready. No sooner had we made the lines fast to the bull rails that the harbormaster moved us to our berth for the next four nights.


After getting moored at the new berth, we left Ed to finalized the connections for the boat while we ate lunch. Trickster the Raven joined us for lunch. He is wary but not shy. The wait person told us he loves to steal food from people plates. To keep Trickster entertained and away from our food, I flung some croutons as far as I could for it to feed on or take to it's nest. As we finished our meal and stood up to leave, he flew up to the table searching for scraps but the table was cleared much to it's disappointment I am sure.


I returned to the boat took a long nap and missed dinner. I awaken with enough time to watch NONNAS. A movie based on a real life restaurant. While we watched the movie about this man's dream to open an italian restaurant, I ate a cold cut sandwich of my own making. The movie is thorougly enjoyable.


Well, folks, we are in Shearwater for at least the next four days while we wait for the weather window to open up for our crossing in front of CAPE CAUTION.


Next stop Pruth Bay, Dawson Landing and then after crossing the cape, Allison Harbor and the Broughtons. It is 130 am, time for bed.

 
 
 

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