The real world, Bella Bella

"When the kids go to the real world...". I argue that the real world is here, not outside, in the cities. Here the folks know each other, they trust and look out for each other and they respect each other and their culture and traditions. Yes, there may be challenges that many of us would not put up with and would pull up stakes and be away, but these folks persist and trive.

Bella Bella Big House

Today, Stever and I took the "bus" to Bella Bella from Shear Water. As you may recall, we were both under the weather when the rest of the crew went to Bella Bella.

We stopped by the market which by comparison to Shear Water is enormous. The shelves were being restocked but the refrigerator section for milk was almost completely devoid of milk and milk substitutes. The arrival of resupply is apparently not predictable. We have some ultra pasturized 2% Lactose free milk on the boat so breakfast cereal will be dry by choice. "American Visa is not accepted here."said the cashier, "This Visa is international from Germany" Steve informed her. Curious statement and exchange.

The Big House, not large house, as incorrectly mentioned yesterday was locked and an elderly woman who arrived told us that we would not be allowed in because visitors were permitted at certain hours. So while we waited and commiserated, we noticed man unlock and enter the building. We checked the door and and it was unlocked so we entered the vast wooden hall.

Before we entered we noted a bald eagle on a totem outside and across the street from the Big House. The eagle was perched on the eagle on the top of the totem.

Inside the Big House we learned about the dances, the songs and why they are done. We learned how the chief of each family supervises to ensure that the information passed on and the dance is done correctly. This is how they preserve their oral history tradition..

The Haitzaqv (Heitsuk) Nation has built the Big House, Women's Safe Shelter, Language School, Library and plan a Hospital to be built. The gent we talked with acknowledged that other coastal tribes are not doing as well and added that water is difficult for them to obtain.

The "bus" driver, a member of the Haitzaqv Nation explained to us that the Nation and the Haida Gwaii had warred for years and practiced cannabalism. Part of the Pot Latch was the induction of one of the members of the Haida Gwaii into the tribe. making him and his extended family protected from cannabalism. Cannabalism is not practiced any longer, thankfully. The Haida Gwaii had made a gift of a totem to the tribe when the Big House was built 5 years ago.

The Bus is an aluminum boat that is driven expertly by the young woman pilot. She according to reports, is much better at landing the boat and taking off than the guy who also drives the bus. The equipment is spartan but functional. The seats are comfortable and the ride, it can be exciting especially when dodging deadheads and drift wood from the size of a 2x4 to a full tree.

Tonight we did a peel off, and while we are still in 4th place, we are in first as the novices of the fleet. (We are the only novices! LOL) So the first half of the ICR competition is completed and the second half about to begin. We continue to improve and continue to be challenged by the digital world of predicted log.

Tomorrow one of our fleet departs the fleet and returns to Bremerton. We wish them safe travels and much success in fishing. We hope our paths cross in the futures. Fair winds and following seas Sarah B.